About Kyaing Tong | Keng Tung |
Fantastic Water
Festival | Tour Program
Kyaing Tong is well known for
its scenic beauty and colorful hill tribes, still untouched by tourism.
You may have done a lot of traveling throughout the world Kyaing Tong
will always be among the most enchanting places.
Kyaing Tong is the capital of Eastern Shan State region and easily
accessible by flight from either, Yangon, Mandalay or Heho. It is also
one of the most scenic spots and the start of many interesting treks
into the surrounding mountains. A place with a long history Kyaing Tong
town proper is a unique bend of many cultures; Gon Shan, Myanmar and a
little bit of Thai. This can be seen in the architecture of the
buildings which shows traces of all.
Also around Kyaing Tong are many ethnic villages; Palaungs, Eng, Akha,
Lahu etc. These ethnic tribes had surprisingly preserved their ancient
customs and traditions as well as their unique and colorful dresses up
to now and many can be seen in the marketplace where they come to do
their shopping every morning.
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Forbidden No More
There are people like Joe,
traders in fringe tourism, to care for the circumspect entry conditions
and officialdom along the way. Joe operates a guest house in Mae Sai, the
Thai town linked to Tachileik, Myanmar by a short bridge, and a trusted
Toyota truck in which he avoids potholes and politics along the rough road
between the Thai and Chinese borders, the end of permissible tourist
travel. The alternative is a station wagon dubbed a "rabbit", which waits
for passengers in the Tachileik market. Either method of transport is an
exhilarating ride through the bamboo-forested valleys that are home to
hitch-hiking minorities who, in Joe's case, accepted lifts in the bed of
his truck.
The colourful and varied minority cultures who make the Shan State such an
intriguing travel prospect are the reason the region has remained
isolated. Akha, Kachin, Lahu, Palaung, Pa-O, Shan and Wa have rebelled
tenaciously against central rule and each other, conflicts which have
involved in confusing assortment of partnerships and players. Their
secessionist movements survived by selling opium. The Mong Tai Army for
Shan liberation, under the leadership of Khun Sa, controlled Shan State of
opium production for twenty years. His unexpected resignation in 1996, and
new economic ties between Myanmar, Thailand and China, paved the way
figuratively at least-for the long-awaited, safe passage in.
The poor condition of the road reflects it origins. Hundreds of
dust-coated soldiers in floppy bush hats are in charge of it repairs as
each rainy season threatens to revert it to the narrow pony track it was
from the fourteenth to mid-twentieth centuries, a 240 kilometer route for
Chinese mule caravans cutting across Myanmar and Thailand with products
bound for Bay of Bengal ports. It remains the vital trade corridor of old
but today's cargo and transportation have been updated-lorries now convey
everything from electronics to gemstones. Keng Tung was the first
destination within Myanmar for the old Chinese caravans after which the
route separated into two entering Thailand. A British official, who
traveled by elephant through the Shan State, noted in his 1890 book that
8,000 laden animals arrived yearly in Chiang Mai from Keng Tung. The
Chinese traders carried camphor, dates, silk, tea and walnuts, and
returned with cotton, lacquerware, silver and tobacco. Some brought their
religion as well, having been converted to Islam by the Mongols. The
Panthays, a Moslem Shan State minority , are descendants of such caravan
drivers. Keng Tung, halfway between Thailand and China, is the first stop
for today's travellers. Here it is possible to meet characters likes
retired schoolteacher Matthew who remembers the weekly caravans of 100
ponies that passed through during the dry winter months, or who can show
you the drooping building where the tea they carried was stored. More
relevant are the money changers in the market who run active businesses
exchanging local Kyat, Thai baht, and Chinese yuan for silver Indians
rupees, a currency still viable for cross-border trade since the caravan
days. Many of the coins are dated no later than 1918.
W.Somerset Maugham devoted two chapters to the market in a 1930 travel
book, when he rested in Keng Tung after an exhausting four hundred mile
pony trek through the Shan State. It is larger now, and comparatively less
foreign that what he described, but among the quiet Shan shopkeepers and
shoppers are the same hill trible customers in their ethnic dress,
distinctive headdresses and silver jewelry. They live in villages around
Keng Tung, the closest accessible with help from a local guide. Others are
remote, their only approach up mountains by foot, and stores are swapped
in Keng Tung's coffee shops about the tigers that still menace them.
In Shan music, captured on scratchy cassettes that play in the market,
Maungham heard "the impression of something immensely old". Unrecorded is
the ancient music of religion-gongs, chants and bells-that leads to Wat
Zom Kham where young novice monks intone scriptures inside a glided hall,
the call of boyhood temporarily subdued by the sacred. When he tries,
another boy begins, a cycle of prayer in place since a hermit Tunga,
foretold by the Buddha himself, shrunk a lake with his magic and a devout
city rose named after him. The murky natural pond in the middle of Keng
Tung is the basis of the folk tale, its thirty-two monasteries and pagodas
the final fulfillment of the prophecy. Six hairs of the Buddha are
enshrined in Way Zom Kham's pagoda; left as relics, it is said, when a
wandering Buddha came to the Shan State.
Keng Tung saw its share of pilgrims. American Baptist an Catholic
missionaries beat even the British to Myanmar by several years in 1890,
and set up orphanages and schools. Their simple earthenfloored churches
are found in many hill tribe villages around Keng Tung. The Shan, who
belonged to the great Buddhist Lanna Kingdom of thirteenth and fourtheenth
century Thailand, remained unpersuaded. Their pride in shared
ethnolinguisticties to the Thai unbreakable. It was the Thai King Mangrai,
later founder of Chiang Mai, who bequeathed to Keng Tung its final name of
the "The Walled City of Tung" by enclosing it with a twelve kilometer
wall. Only a single arch of the original seven gates remains under which
Keng Tung's unhurried traffic moves. In 1991, Keng Tung lost another
landmark, the teak palace or haw of a heredity Shan prince called a saopa,
the last another historical landmark, the teak palace or haw of a heredity
Shan prince called a saopa, the last of a dynasty that has existed since
the end of the Lanna Kingdom in the sixteenth century. It was replaced by
a symbol of the times, a multi-storied hotel. A residence of a minor
prince remains for travellers to view from the outside, its current
occupants United National Drug Control Program staff, no less significant
today as rovalty was in the past.
If Keng Tung is the capital of Shan culture, the region's major ethnic
group, Mongla, a town on the Chinese border, is the Wa's former
headhunters who early travelers, feared and attempted to avoid. Evading
the Wa is no longer necessary or possible for between Keng Tung and Mongla
is their semiautonomous territory within which the sizxable minority has
its own army, flag and license plates. Vehicle are charge to enter and
exit "Wa land" and the road, the Wa responsibility, is a vast improvement
over what lies outside their jurisdiction.
The Wa were Khun Sa's competitors in opium production, and reportedly
replace him when he retired, but Mongla's recent development - a grand
hotel, and even grander Buddhist temple, a bridge, a beer garden, and a
nightclub - offer another version of the story. In the equally new,
startling pink, antinarcotics museum, these projects are cited as progress
in the combined efforts of Myanmar, China and Thailand to eradicate the
drug trade. Thurists are shown room filled with photographs of the burning
of poppy fields, the destruction of refineries, and seizure of heroin
shipment and weapons.
Mongla's past in hidden under fresh paint.The mules are issing but in the
market exotica sells as commonplace and all common placce is trade. At the
chinese border, Shan State minority maidens wait to be photographed as
they do at the other entrance to their homeland, but in difference to new
influences, they have rejected their traditional finery for synthetic,
sequined dresses. They make an attractive picture but what they offer, an
introduction to the Shan State, travellers no longer need. A colser look
is available from within.
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Unique tradition of the Gon Shans is the New Year Festival. In Myanmar Era
772 when Phra Kyio Matu was sawbwa of Kengtung there was a big drought and
people were in heavy misery with consequent unstable situations. The
Sawbwa asked the learned astrologers on ways to escape from this distaster
and he was told that accroding their calculations, Kengtung belonged in
the Monday planet but the rulers, being Yun people, were from the Rahu
(or) the second part of Wendnesday planet, So there were internal
conflicts within the planets inself. So to erase these conflicts the
astrologers suggested that 24 Tai Loi people from Moung Yang area should
be summoned be Kengtung. After they are dressed in red and white robes
they are then to beat auspicious drum, hung inside the compound of the Sao
Lon Kart (nat shrine) from the 1.00 p.m on the Seecond day of the eve of
the New Year.
On the Second day of the eve of the New Year the drum is taken from its
place. Then a representative of the Zar people who by traditions is
allowed to wear the cloths of Sankarm (Sakra) will follow on a horse
behind the drum and a papier mache images of Sankarm (Sakra) and the
procession will follow the Loimwe-Mong Yang Road towords Long Kop on the
Nam Hkun creek. The people lining the procession route will sprinkle
scented water on the procession for good luck.
A clay statue of a frog, representing the Rahu planet, with a cresent
moon, representing the Monday planet, is constructed on the bank of the
creek and when the procession reach the place elder persons will recite
the Mingala sutra and everybody kowtows. Then both the staute of the frog
and Sankarm (Sakra) are sent down the creek. The Tai Loi people bring back
the drum to the original routed and when the drum reaches the Maha Muni
Pagoda, 4 monks from Wat Son Hkam monastery, which is situated under the
banyan tree supposed to house the guardian spirit of Kengtung, will recite
the Mingala sutra and rehang it back at wat kengzan Monastery. As the
ceremony ended the heavens opened up with a deluge and everybody was
happy. This tradition started in Myanmar Era 772 and carried on up till
now annually.
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In order to get the most out of
your visit to kyainge Tone Private Hotel can make well organized
arrangement with our extensive knowledge of the region, particulary the
remote hill tribes.
Day - 01
On arrival welcome by our local English speaking tour guide and transfer
to Private Hotel. Sight seeing in Kyainge Tong starts with Maha Myat Muni
Pagoda, housing Mandalay Style Buddha image. Proceed to Shan Lacquerware.
Tourists who are fond of lacquerware can purchase desirable lacquerwave of
high quality. Then visit Standing Buddha image, (the place where Kyainge
Tong was founded about one thousand years ago), Hot spa, Akha centre
village and R.C.M church. Sunset on the One tree Hill where a lone, 245
years old Kanyin-byu (Diptero carpus Spp) tree stands. The tree was
planted by Alaungmintaya, the founder of Third Myanmar Enpire. And then
come back to the pottery village "Yan Gone" to observe the handicraft
earthern pots of shan tribe. Overnight at Private Hotel.
Day - 02
After breakfast, morning visit to Water Buffalo Market where buyers and
sellers stand around seemingly doing nothing but sales are transacted
quietly. The market is situated of the left hand side of the road leaving
Kyainge Tong for Taunggyi on the southern side of the down. Because water
buffalos are not found in many countries, the twice weekly market excites
considerable interest. Then take the car about 50 minutes and trek about -
1½ hours to arrive "Ho Kyin" villages, typical Akha tribe villages. From
here continue for another 30 minutes to Na Phi Phank village, where Lahu
and Akha tribes living together.
From there walk to Phata Akha village and to "Pang Ma Phai" Akha tribe
village to learn more about their daily life. Come back to the car to go
Mong Zine (Khun Village) to see traditional Lahu Knives made by Lahu black
smith. On the way back to hotel visit Joe Phyu "Wa village". Overnight at
Private Hotel.Day - 3
Breakfast at the hotel, take the car about 45 minutes for a hiking tour
into the Pin Tauk area. Lush mixed monsoon forest with a view to the plain
rice fields looking like a huge, green patchwork blanket. Visit the
villages of Akha and Enn tribes. Some are haptized, some tribes still
animists. The Enn are an ethnic group which tourists have found
particularly interesting labelling them the "Black Teeth". The walk is not
difficult and can be done slowly. They live on the higher slopes. They
have distinctively different costumes and beliefs from the other tribes.
It will take about 4-hours to visit the villages. Take lunch at Pin Tauk
water-fall. Late afternoon, come back to Private Hotel.
Day - 4
Breakfast at the hotel. Full day excursion to Lwe tribe villages. Drive
appr. 2 hrs on the road to Maila, a border town at the Chinese Border.
From there it will take a ½
hours hike to Wan Nyut village, one of the Loi tribe villages. The Loi
preferring to live in a huge long houses, including at least 5 families.
Before visiting the Loi there is an old monastery, a very beautiful one
and very different form the other monasteries. One hour from there is
another Loi village (Wan Seng). Scenery is beautiful and hiking is not
difficult. Return to Kyainge Tong appr. at 17:00. Overnight a Private
Hotel.
Day - 5
After breakfast drive appr.25 minutes to Palaung tribe village (Wan Pauk).
The Palaung tribe are known locally as "Silver" Palaungs. A branch of the
same tribe, locally called "Gold" Palaung, lives in Northern Shan State.
Three hours hiking from there is Lahu Shi villages, kunpe-1 and kunpe-2.
Lahu Shi, Black Lahu and Red Lahu are the same tribes. Trekking through
forests. Valleys and gorges is very fascinating. Return to Kyainge Tong
appr. at 16:00.
Day - 6
After Breakfast drive to "Akhu village" (appr. 35 minutes) 9km north-east
of Kyainge Tong. The costume of the ladies of this tribe is simple : a
wide sleeved short black jacket over a sarong of horizontal red stripes on
black. Then proceed to Loimwe (appr. 2 hours dirve) 33km away from Kyainge
Tong. Loimwe which literally translated means "misty mountain" is at an
altitude of over 1600 meters above sea - level. It commands a magnificant
view of the surrounding area and enjoys a temperate climate. Once an
outpost of the British there remain many Colonial buildings and also a
Catholic Church. The main attraction along the way is the scenery on the
ascent to Loimwe, which passes through forests, tarraced rice fields. On
the way to Loimwe you will have several stops to visit different villages.
Wan Lun Shan villages, walk and explore the native village life; HoLup
Akha village where you can see the traditional Akha tribes with their
colorful dresses; Nang Cho Wa villgae and Panwai Lahu village on the left
and right side of the road. Late afternoon you will be back in Kyainge
Tong. Overnight at Private Hotel.
Day - 7
After breakfast drive appr. 3 hours to Mongla, a town on the Chinese
Border, 86 km away from Kyainge Tong. Where you can enjoy Mangla's recent
development - a lot of grand hotels & restaurants grandeur Buddhist temple
(Dway Nagara Golden Pagoda), night clubs, Casino Hall and antinarcotics
museum which is cited as progress in the combined efforts of Myanmar,
China and Thailand to eradicate the drug trade. Tourists can observe the
photograps of the buring poppy fields, the destruction of refineries and
seizure of heroin shipment and weapons. Mongla's past has already changed
under fresh paint.
Day - 8
Breakfast at the Hotel. Morning visit to central market which bustles
daily from 6 to 11:00 in the morning. The market offers products from
China & Thailand, and also it has local traditional clothing, antique
coins and other implements for sale making good souvenirs. Then proceed to
Naung Tong lake and the Wat Jom Kham Pagoda, where sacred hair relic of
Lord Buddha is enshrined in it. Legend says Wat Jom Kham dates to a visit
by Gautama Buddha. If features a tall gilded stupa topped by a gold
umbrella inlaid with silver, rubies, diamonds, sapphires and jade and hung
with gold tinny bells. Then transfer to kyainge Tong Airport.
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